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CUTTING DKESSES 



INVENTED BY 

MISS L. E.ROBBINS, 

8O0TOX. 



Entered according to Act of Congress in Office of the Librarian at Washington, on the 27th day of Oct. 
1874, by L. E. BOBBINS. 



BOSTON: 

GOODWIN & DRISKO, PRINTERS, 213 WASHINGTON STREET. 
1875. 




THE 



OF 



CUTTING DBESSES. 



INVENTED BY 

MISS L. E. ROBBINS, 
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£ 



Entered according to Act of Congress in Office of the Librarian at Washington, on the 27th day of Oct. 
1874, by L. E. Robbins. 



$7$ rf 



BOSTON: 

GOODWIN & DRISKO, PRINTERS, 213 WASHINGTON STREET. 

1875. 






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OF 



CUTTING DRESSES. 



INVENTED BY MISS L. E. ROBBINS, OF BOSTON. 



In introducing this System to the public, the object is at last accom- 
plished which so many have sought in vain for, viz: To cut ladies' gar- 
ments perfectly by measure, using the measure only, and according to 
mathematical principles. 

How often the question has been asked, " Why cannot ladies' dresses 
be cut on the same principle as gentlemen's coats and vests, and thus save 
so much time and trouble in fitting and re-fitting, after they have been 
cut by a chart or pinned to the figure ? " 

I am now ready to answer that question in the affirmative. They can 
by this System, using the measures of the waist and the square only, in 
drafting, by this method producing a perfect and elegant fit. This, I con- 
tend, is the ultimatum to which so many have only approximated. To 
measure the waist in two or three lines, and then apply those measures to 
a chart and cut the garment, or by substituting certain specified numbers 
and using the same number of numbers for every figure — using your own 
discretion about varying — is not cutting by measure. 



DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING THE MEASURES. 

1st. Take the size of breast close under the arms, by passing the 
tape around the breast above the bust. This measure must be taken one 
inch tighter than an easy measure. 

2d. Measure around the bottom of waist as tight as the garment is 
required to be. 

3d. Measure from the neck bone to bottom of waist for length of 
waist. 

4th. The width of back is obtained by measuring from the right to 
the left arm at the top of side seam. 

5th. Length of shoulder should be varied to suit the customer and 
the prevailing style. 



6th. Length of side seam is found by passing the inch »tape around 
close up under the arm, and measuring from the top of tape to the bottom 
of waist. 

7th. Height of neck is found by passing the inch tape around the 
shoulder, and measuring from the neck bone to the top of tape. 

8th. Height of dart is found by measuring from the neck bone to 
the most prominent part of bust. 

9th. Length of point is found by measuring from neck bone to bot- 
tom of waist in front, always allowing two inches below the waist, or as 
long a point as the customer can wear, as this gives a more graceful 
appearance to the figure. 

10th. For length of sleeve, measure from the inside of the arm, 
taking note of the distance from the top to the curve or elbow. 

11th. Measure for length of skirt at front, side and back, as long as 
desired. The length of skirt should never be allowed to touch the floor 
until it has passed the hip, even with the longest train. 

If these measures are correctly taken and applied according to the 
following rules of drafting, the dress or garment will as surely be correct, 
and an elegant and graceful fit will be the result. But in all cases the 
greatest care must be taken to have every measure strictly accurate, as 
any measure taken imperfectly will render the garment imperfect, and 
although it can be corrected in trying on, much of the beauty of style 
will be lost. 

If a dress has been cut, and upon trying on is found to be imperfect 
in any way, then correct the measure in your order book, which was too 
large or too small, and then how easy it becomes to cut the next garment 
for this figure. Every one who would become a good cutter must study 
the science, and the effect which every cause produces, as there is never 
an effect without a cause. 

Now, although we have produced a good fit, we must consider that 
much of the style of the garment depends on the artistic taste of the 
cutter. For example, to locate the width of back and side body at the 
bottom of waist so as to give a round appearance to the waist : This may 
be done by making the back narrower and adding the same amount to the 
front — to locate the height of darts to the best advantage for the different 
figures — to curve the darts so as to allow no fulness at the top of dart — 
to give a sufficient curve below the bust — to give a point of sufficient 
length to give the figure an erect and graceful appearance — and to give 
each figure the style of garment best adapted to its form. 



BASTING. 

The greatest care must be used in basting, as however perfectly the 
dress may have been cut, to insure the fit we must baste with the greatest 
accuracy; basting the outside and lining together in the traced marks on 
the lining, which are made in tracing all the lines on the pattern, which 
are to be sewed, on the lining; baste the outside and lining smoothly 



together, leaving a loose floating thread on the lining side. Cut the darts 
open before basting them together. 

Stretch the front shoulder before joining it to the back. Commence 
all the seams at the top, and baste downward. Be careful to have all the 
lines on the back indicating the bottom of waist to be exactly parallel. 
In joining the front and back under the arm, hold the front a little tighter 
than the back, taking care at all times to baste exactly in the lines by 
means of the loose thread. Baste the sleeve in so that the seam shall 
come over the elbow when on. 

In finishing up the dress, all the seams except the darts are to fall 
towards the front. After they are stitched, and the bone casings are 
stitched, pare them closely, to allow the waist to spring to the figure. 

Have a strong belt, a trifle tighter than the dress, sewed to the seams, 
to hook before buttoning the dress, to relieve it from strain and to keep 
the waist in place. 



DIRECTIONS FOB A MEDIUM- SIZED LADY. 

The following are the measures of a medium-sized figure in the order 
in which they are to be taken : 

Size of breast .-. 36 

Size of waist 25 

Length of waist 16 

Width of back 14 

Length of shoulder 6| 

Length of side seam 8 

Height of neck 4 

Height of dart 14 

Length of point 21 

Length of arm 16 

Length of skirt, front. 

" " " side 

" " " back 



1 


--*-. \ H 


No. 1 

D 


J 

C 




A 



Diagram No. 1. 

First find line A by the long arm of the square, and dot at 16 inches, 
which is the length of waist. Draw line B by the short arm. The height 
of neck being 4 inches, dot at 4 inches on the long arm for line C. Line D 
is 8 inches (the length of side seam) above the bottom of waist. Line E 
has already been indicated at the length of waist. 

To find the width on line B, always take one-sixteenth of the breast 
measure. The width on line C is always one-fifth of breast measure. 
The width on line D is always one-half of width of back. The width of 
back on line E may be varied to suit the style of the garment, but is 
usually one-half an inch. Width of side body on line E is one-fifth of 
waist measure. 

The shoulder is found by placing the square at the dot indicating the 
width on line B, with the length of shoulder at that dot, and the square 
intersecting line C, at the dot indicating the width of line C. Curve the 
arm-size from this point to the dot on line D. Curve the neck, commenc- 
ing one-eighth of an inch below line B, and raising a little above at the 
shoulder line. For curving the shoulder, observe the diagram. 

The sweep for the side body is found by taking a cord twice the width 
of back on line D, and taking the pencil and one end of the cord in the 
right hand, putting the left hand at a point where the pencil will touch at 
the half-inch dot on line E, and the centre between line C and D, as shown 
in the diagram. Tbe sweep for the side seam is found in the same man- 
ner as for the back. 

To draft the front, first extend lines B, C, D and E, and dot at one- 
third of the breast measure, between lines C and D, from line A, placing 



the 12 inches, which is one-third of breast measure, and dotting at the 
end of the square. This gives the front of the arm-size; next find 
one-fourth of breast measure in a straight line from the last named 
dot, which will locate the middle of front; draw line F by placing the 
short arm parallel with line E and the long arm intersecting the dot, 
which indicated the middle of front. To find line G, or the shoulder line, 
place the short arm of the square parallel with line F, and raised one 
inch above line B; dot at one-half inch less than the height of neck 
(which will be 3£ inches) on the long arm; then turn the square so that 
the number indicating the length of shoulder touches this dot, and the 
corner of the square drops one and one-half inch below line B ; draw line 
G, and curve the arm-size; take one-fourth inch from the shoulder, front 
and back, for the seam. Find line H by placing the square across from the 
lower part of arm-size, and dropping one and one-half inch on line F, 
to get the correct angle to allow the back dart higher than the front. 
Measure now for the height of dart, raising or lowering line H as the case 
requires. To find the top of front dart, take one-ninth of breast meas- 
ure; for second dart, one fifth of breast measure from line F. 

Measure for length of point, and draw a new line below line E. To 
locate first dart at bottom, take one-sixteenth of waist measure from line 
F. Draw the line for side seam by placing the short arm of the square on 
line D, at the junction of the front and back arm-size, and dot for the 
length of side seam ; allow one-fifth of waist measure from the side seam 
towards line F, and dot for the back of second dart. Divide the remain- 
ing space into two darts, first deducting one-half inch, which is the space 
between the darts, and allow the back dart to be one-half inch larger 
than the front one ; draw and curve the darts as shown by diagram. 
I 




Diagram No. 2. 

For a stout or very corpulent figure, draft as in diagram No. 1, and 
spring out from line F one-half inch, or more if required, as shown in the 
diagram. Obtain the top and bottom of dart from this line, instead of 
line F. 




Diagram No. 3. 



This method is adapted to such figures as require a full bust and 
slight waist, but may be applied to all. Draft the same as in the preced- 
ing diagrams, deducting one-half inch from one-fifth of waist measure, at 
bottom of waist, for the space between the second and third darts — allow 
one or two inches for fullness of third dart — which is to be taken from 
first and second darts. 



F 
/' 

E {; 


No> 


/ 


} 


D 




B 


A 







Diagram No. 4, 

This diagram shows the method of drafting a loose waist. The lines 
are all obtained from line A, as in the foregoing diagram ; but the widths 
are obtained from the inside line which was obtained by springing in from 
line A, on line E, two inches, which will make the fulness in back. Allow 
two inches for the gathers. 



10 




Diagram No. 5. 
BASQUE. 

Draft the waist as in Diagram No. 1. Extend line A eight inches be- 
low line E, and spring out one and one-half inches ; draw a line from line 
E and A to this dot. Allow the width from the extended end of line A to 
be one inch less than half the length, and place the short arm of the 
square, with the number indicating this width, at the end of line A, the 
long arm intersecting line E at the junction of back and side body, and 
draw the line. To draft the side body, dot by the long arm, the short arm 
being parallel with line E, the same length as the line last drawn, and 
spring out one and one-half inch ; draw the line from this dot. Dot four 
inches below the waist at side seam, and spring out one and one-half inch. 
For the front, extend line F six inches below the line I. Dot at bottom of 
front of first dart six inches below line I, and spring in one-half inch, and 
draw the line ; spring in one-half inch from this line, and draw the line 
from back of first dart. 

The second dart is found in the same manner. Dot four inches below 
line I, at side seam, and spring out two inches, and draw all the lines as 
shown in the diagram. 

This gives the principle for cutting a basque which may be varied into 
many beautiful shapes, according to the taste and skill of the cutter. 



14 



Diagram No. 6. 

This diagram teaches the method of drafting polonaise, and may also 
be applied to cutting a gabrielle dress. The back is drafted the same as a 
basque, being extended as long as required. 

To draft the skirt and front, extend line F as long as required. Dot 
in a direct line four inches below line I, at the bottom of first dart, and 
spring out one and one-half inch ; draw the line as shown in the diagram, 
making as long as required. In drafting the side piece, add one inch to 
allow for seam and space of dart, and dot in a direct line below this point, 
on line I, four inches, and draw the line ; four inches below line I, at 
side seam, dot and spring out two inches ; draw the line as long as the 
skirt is required to be. 

The polonaise may be cut in this manner, or by extending the darts 
into the skirt, taking care to have them taper to a sufficient length to pre- 
vent fulness at the bottom of dart. 





F 
















*"-...._ 


1 
1 


No.7 






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Diagram No, 7, 
PLAIN SACQUE. 

Obtain all the lines as in the waist, and spring in from line A, on line 
E, two inches, and draw a line as shown in diagram ; from this line get 
the width, instead of from line A ; four inches below line E, at the side 
seam, spring out one and one-half inch. The front is drafted the same as 
a dress front, except at side seam, on line E, we spring in one inch, and 
curve the side seam to this dot; four inches below line E, at side seam, 



15 

spring out one and one-half inch ; extend these lines as long as the sacque 
is required to be and shape at bottom, according to the prevailing style. 





,--' 




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D /': 


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.-- A 


C 


No.8 


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Diagram, No, 8, 
SLEEVE. 

Line A is drawn by the long arm of the square, and is sixteen inches 
long; line B is five inches, which is the average size of a sleeve at the 
wrist. To find line C, we measure from the top of inside of sleeve, to the 
bend of the arm. Line D is the top of sleeve. The head of sleeve is usu- 
ally four inches higher than line D. After having raised this four inches, 
curve for sleeve head. The width on line D should be one-fourth of 
breast measure ; the width of line C, one-fourth of breast measure from 
line A, and the width of line B is five inches. Line E is found by drop- 
ping one and one-half inch below line B, and drawing on angle to the 
junction of line A and B. Commence at line E, and curve up to top of 
sleeve head, touching at all the dots at back part of sleeve. The curve of 
sleeve at the inside, on line C, should be one inch from line A, and should 
spring one-half inch from the junction of line A and B. 

The under side of sleeve should be one and one-half inch smaller 
on line D than the upper side, and should be curved as shown in diagram. 



16 



PRICES 



One Square, one Instruction Book, and one Order Book, constitute a 

System. 

Price of one System, instruction included ...... $20.00 

One System . 9.00 

One Square 2.50 

One Square, with hinge 3.00 

One Order Book . . x 1.50 

One Instruction Book 5.00 

Patent Guages for cutting bias pieces and trimmings, or 

goring skirts 2.50 

Tracing Wheels .50 

Lap Boards, folding, portable and plain, at all prices, from one dollar 
to five. 

A liberal discount will be offered to agents, either local or travelling. 

Address all orders to 

MISS L. E. ROBBINS, 

68 Dover Street, Boston, Mass. 



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